Engine Guard temperature warning

[Azzman1000]

Hi everyone,

Anyone had experience with these ? Are they worth it?

https://engineguard.com.au/product/engin...gLLf_D_BwE

Finally got my van back on the road in the last few days after about 12 months. There was plenty of work done to her which became one thing after another.  I had to put it on the back burner for a while but I was finally able to do the last couple of bits.

I had replaced the rad due to overheating issues before parking it up and now that I’ve sorted the other issues I am driving it again. It seems to be holding temps around the middle or slightly right of the warning bulb and the fans kick in which is great but I think I also have some electrical issues (possibly just dirty grounds?) if I turn the headlights on/off the temp warning bulb flashes for a second same if I turn high beams on/off. 

So I’m not exactly confident with trusting my temp gauge and was considering adding one of these for piece of mind.

Cheers.

[Grantus]

Seems to be a few electrickery gremlins there, with the headlights triggering your temp light, and def worth looking into.

As to your link, you are then adding another (aftermarket) electrical component to the equation, that may cause even more grief.

A well running T3 temp light has two functions. After start up, it should only come on if there is a coolant drop in the pressure bottle, (and it won’t turn off if you fill the coolant bottle full, unless you reset it by turning off the ignition).

It will also come on, even with coolant levels correct, if the motor overheats for another reason.

Best to accept the needle position at warmed up running mode, as normal, to base any concerning variation.

My two, run at normal operating temperature, with a different needle position. I only look at variations to that position in each, to see if they are behaving, or need attention.

[Azzman1000]

Seems to be a few electrickery gremlins there, with the headlights triggering your temp light, and def worth looking into.

As to your link, you are then adding another (aftermarket) electrical component to the equation, that may cause even more grief.

A well running T3 temp light has two functions. After start up, it should only come on if there is a coolant drop in the pressure bottle, (and it won’t turn off if you fill the coolant bottle full, unless you reset it by turning off the ignition).

It will also come on, even with coolant levels correct, if the motor overheats for another reason.

Best to accept the needle position at warmed up running mode, as normal, to base any concerning variation.

My two, run at normal operating temperature, with a different needle position. I only look at variations to that position in each, to see if they are behaving, or need attention.

You make a good point about adding more electrical “gremlins” I figured if I avoid the fuse box and go directly to the battery with an inline fuse I’m not relying on any of the van electrical system. But this would leave it always on, so it would need to be wired to ignition… mmmmm 

I also have an issue with the headlights, when I turn high beams off the low beams can often not turn back on and I’m left with just parkers. This can be fixed by wiggling the lever around or turning the high beams on and off until they work.

I’ve assumed the issue lies within the steering column assembly. From my understanding it all ground the the column and it way be what’s causing the bulb flash too.

I thought that if these temp sensors are “accurate” it’s a good fail safe to compare and fluctuation if the needle moves anywhere.

Cheers.

[Grantus]

If you are a “hands on” DIY type owner, and want to give it a go, remove the steering wheel, (but mark a connecting line on the shaft, before you remove, to ensure you fit it back on the spline in the same position.)

With the wheel off, there are 3 VW screws that hold the horn ring and light and wiper stalks down. Check they are tight, and haven’t stripped the threads. Removing them, will give you access to the light switch stalk, and the wiper switch stalk.

Electrical contact cleaner, and a bit of very fine “wet & dry” sandpaper as you go. Check the electrical connections for good clean contacts.

As your bus sounds very stock, your headlight current to your low and high beam, will be passing through your ignition switch. They do fail, and well worth replacing whilst you are in the area. They are not expensive, and can sort a heap of issues, aside just being the turn switch to start the motor.

To finish the job, unplug the 14 pin connector under the dash, that connects your dash pod to the wiring harness, and give that a thorough careful clean, with cleaner and paper.

Put it all back together in the reverse order, and see if you’ve managed a change, and sorted any of the issues.

[Azzman1000]

If you are a “hands on” DIY type owner, and want to give it a go, remove the steering wheel, (but mark a connecting line on the shaft, before you remove, to ensure you fit it back on the spline in the same position.)

With the wheel off, there are 3 VW screws that hold the horn ring and light and wiper stalks down. Check they are tight, and haven’t stripped the threads. Removing them, will give you access to the light switch stalk, and the wiper switch stalk.

Electrical contact cleaner, and a bit of very fine “wet & dry” sandpaper as you go. Check the electrical connections for good clean contacts.

As your bus sounds very stock, your headlight current to your low and high beam, will be passing through your ignition switch. They do fail, and well worth replacing whilst you are in the area. They are not expensive, and can sort a heap of issues, aside just being the turn switch to start the motor.

To finish the job, unplug the 14 pin connector under the dash, that connects your dash pod to the wiring harness, and give that a thorough careful clean, with cleaner and paper.

Put it all back together in the reverse order, and see if you’ve managed a change, and sorted any of the issues.

Hi mate,

Thanks, I’m very hands on with my bus. It’s my ongoing project and I absolutely love it. Believe it or not I’ve already done all of the above, including replacing the ignition switch. When I was first getting her ready for a road worthy I had issues with the horn not working and fixed doing this. 

I haven’t pulled and cleaned the 14 pin connector though so I’ll definitely have a look at it.

I’ve since taken two decent drives (around an hour each time) and had zero issues with over heating, the needle is staying in the same spot and the rad fan is kicking in at the lower of the two speeds so I’m fairly confident that the system is working as it should.

As I said I was just considering one of these as a fail safe to give me a read on temps but perhaps it’s not necessary.

[Grantus]

Cool! The more you do to it, the more reliable and trustworthy they become. Keep up the good work!

Nothing better, than just enjoying the ride!

[Oldman]

Just playing Devil's Advocate here.....
If this unit was wired in totally separately, and the sensor placed as recommended........I reckon it could be a good thing !
A modern unit with fresh cabling, new sensors and installed to spec. could be better than fluctuating needles relying on (how?) old sensors and wiring........at least to have peace of mind. 
As with all vehicles, the owner should know what realistic, safe, driving temps. are for their vehicle .....so much depends on engine build and components, driving conditions etc.
At the end of the day, a well maintained vehicle built to original spec. with an owner that drives to the conditions will have a better chance of their vehicle staying cool-er.

I run a separate, additional oil cooler, oil temp sensor and thermo-switched fan (2ltr late Bay )
The advice I was given by my mechanic was really simple.....
" While you're driving, keep an eye on the oil temp. needle and speedo.....if they're both climbing steadily....lift your accelerator foot....."

Your bus.....your call 

[Azzman1000]

Just playing Devil's Advocate here.....
If this unit was wired in totally separately, and the sensor placed as recommended........I reckon it could be a good thing !
A modern unit with fresh cabling, new sensors and installed to spec. could be better than fluctuating needles relying on (how?) old sensors and wiring........at least to have peace of mind. 
As with all vehicles, the owner should know what realistic, safe, driving temps. are for their vehicle .....so much depends on engine build and components, driving conditions etc.
At the end of the day, a well maintained vehicle built to original spec. with an owner that drives to the conditions will have a better chance of their vehicle staying cool-er.

I run a separate, additional oil cooler, oil temp sensor and thermo-switched fan (2ltr late Bay )
The advice I was given by my mechanic was really simple.....
" While you're driving, keep an eye on the oil temp. needle and speedo.....if they're both climbing steadily....lift your accelerator foot....."

Your bus.....your call 

Hi mate,

This was kind of my thinking when I wrote the post. As long as it’s either getting 12 volt from ignition or grounding to it so that it turns off when the van if off. The information it receives from its sensors will be independent so in theory they should be reliably accurate.